Cherry Laurels

 Home

Planting

 For a dense evergreen hedge, plant 2-3 feet apart.  Because of the leaves' ability to conserve moisture and general drought resistance, losses after planting are very low.  It is however,(as with all plants) a good idea to stand the roots in water overnight prior to planting, this will get them off to a good start.

Aftercare

If the weather is dry, water until they are established, prune back any shoots which have been damaged in transit.

Top dressing with fertiliser is beneficial, but they will tolerate quite poor and dry soils.

If growing in an alkaline soil, yellowing of the extension growth may occur in late summer.  This is due to iron deficiency and may be prevented in future years by applying a foliar spray (or soil drench) of sequestered iron.  This is the compound also used to keep hydrangea flowers blue.

Trimming

Allow to grow freely for the first one or two years.  In later years, prune to size rather than using shears or a mechanical trimmer if possible.  This prevents cut leaves, which while not being harmful, may look unsightly as the edges turn brown.

If cut regularly, laurel will never flower, but when allowed to grow taller it will produce pretty spikes of almond scented white flowers. These develop into small black cherries, which while not of use to us, will attract birds.

 Pests and Diseases

Rabbits will not damage cherry laurel, apart from some nibbling of the stems in very frosty weather.

Because the sap contains minute amounts of hydrocyanic (prussic) acid insects are not generally troublesome either.  Wasps, bees and other insects are often seen on the leaves during the summer. They are being attracted by nectar produced on the leaf surfaces and are not doing any damage.

The tips of shoots are sometimes affected by mildew in mid to late summer, causing whitening and mis-shaping of the new growth.  If not severe, trim back.  If the trouble is more widespead, a fungicidal spray will soon knock it on the head.  Also look in FAQ