THE FOLLOWING IS A COPY OF THE INFORMATION LEAFLET WHICH WE GIVE TO CUSTOMERS
Hybrid Balsam Poplars
These trees, which originate in North America, are a cross between two native poplars
(P. Tamahaca x P. Trichocarpa) and form a tree which is much less vigorous than either the English or Italian poplars.
Their shape is somewhat similar to that of a Lombardy poplar, but much less slender.
This lack of vigour means a smaller root system (allowing safe planting near buildings and crops) and because of their early leafing they make ideal screens or windbreaks. Their large leaves flutter in the wind, dissipating energy and reducing air speed.
For this reason, they are often planted as windbreaks around orchards and hopyards.
They are used by the North American Indians for their medicinal properties, and their name reflects the pleasant aroma given off by the leaves when the buds open in the Spring.
We have been supplying these trees for more than twenty years, initially on the wholesale market, but increasingly to private gardeners for arbours and living fences.
Trees are lifted bare rooted during the dormant season (Oct-March). Planting can be carried out at any time during this period, but it is advisable to avoid very cold soil conditions.
PLANTING AS A WINDBREAK OR SCREEN
The trees should be planted three to six feet apart.
If they are set in the ground slightly deeper than they were when growing in the nursery, then they will not rock in the wind and will not need staking.
Stakes are not necessary as the whipping caused by the wind encourages the stem to stiffen up and form a sturdy trunk.
Allow free growth and remove tops at required final height as necessary.
PLANTING AS A HEDGE
While windbreaks are suitable for rural sites, or as a boundary for the larger garden, their quick growth and tolerance of hard pruning means they can be used to form hedges in smaller gardens.
Plant close (two or three feet apart). Cut off at required height and subsequently trim in the Autumn to encourage shoot formation and bushing out.
PLANTING AS SINGLE SPECIMEN TREES
If in a very exposed location, a short stake will prevent rocking, and ensure that the trunk does not adopt a lean.
Remove sideshoots from the lower six feet or so of the trunk to improve appearance.
PLANTING AS A LIVING FENCE
A very successful development has been in the training of poplars to form an instant two-dimensional hedge or fence which makes a screen which is attractive at all times of the year.
It will transform a bleak line of fencing panels, as well as supporting or replacing them when the inevitable happens and the posts rot away.
It can also be grown free-standing, making a hedge with minimal thickness, (a kind of living fence).
PLANTING A POPLAR FENCE (Nov-March)
Stretch plastic strings as a temporary support along the fence line.
Dig a trench approximately one spade-depth along the fence line.
Plant one-year old trees at approximately 45 ° and 2 feet apart.
Loosely tie to the supporting strings (the trees can also be tied together at the crossing points).
Remove any outward growing side shoots.
THE FOLLOWING SPRING AND SUMMER
Remove the bark with a sharp knife to expose the slimy (cambium) layer at the points where the stems touch as they cross.
If the stems are then taped tightly together with plastic insulating tape, they will become grafted (fused) together.
This makes the whole structure much stronger, as well as looking attractive.
The tapes should be removed after about four or five weeks.
When you have succeeded with these, move up the hedge during the following years.
Keep trimmed and topped throughout the summer to contain size, but allow sideshoots to grow along the fence line.
If the sideshoots are tied down during the autumn, they will fill in the gaps between the stems, and give rise to more shoots during the following season.
